BREGUET Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref.3617BA

MODEL: Classique, Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

REFERENCE: 3617 (3617BA132VU per Breguet archives)

YEAR: 1996, sold new in Milan in April 1996

CASE NUMBER: 1284G

CASE DIMENSIONS: 38mm, thickness 10.9mm

CASE MATERIAL: 18k yellow gold, original Breguet

DIAL: silver guilloché, calendar in Italian

INDEX: Roman numerals, blued steel Breguet hands

MOVEMENT: manual winding, Breguet caliber 533 QP, 21 jewels, adjusted to 5 positions

BRACELET: leather with original yellow gold Breguet buckle

GLASS: Sapphire crystal, sapphire caseback

WATER RESISTANCE: no

PAPERS: Breguet email confirming manufacture and sale in April 1996 in Milan

A perpetual calendar, a chronograph, moon phases and a leap-year cycle in 38mm, and still a Breguet Classique: coin-edge case band, straight lugs, nothing shouting. This one left the house in April 1996 for Milan, and it shows in the language. Lunedì to Domenica, no translation required.

The 3617 is the snap-back predecessor of the 5617. Same architecture, fewer pieces made, and a dial that has not been redrawn.

Dial: two-tone hand-guilloché silver, hobnail center, checkerboard subdials, signed « Guilloché main Swiss » at 6. The months are shown by their Italian initials (G F M A M G L A S O N D) with the leap-year cross (1-2-3-B, B for bisestile) at 12. Days of the week in Italian around the seconds at 9, date and 30-minute register at 3, moon phase and moon age at 6, with the number 1284 printed on the reserve. Blued steel hands.

Case: 18k yellow gold, rounded bezel, three-body construction, coin-edge band with deep hallmarks, correctors on the case band, two round chronograph pushers. Caseback engraved « BREGUET 1284 G – REF 3617 ».

Strap: leather but not the original Breguet one. Original yellow gold Breguet buckle.

Movement: caliber 533 QP, manual winding, 21 jewels, adjusted to 5 positions. Fully visible through the sapphire caseback: chronograph column wheel, rhodium-plated bridges, hand-finished.

Papers: Breguet email confirming the manufacture of watch 1284G and its sale in Milan in April 1996. No box.